Monday, 20 March 2017

Morocco -made for caravans and Motorhomes!

Well we have camped in more than 20 Countries and in Morocco several times. I am always asked "is it safe? ," or "isn't it dirty? " or "what are the roads and campsites like" I will try and tell you truthfully and hopefully be able to give some honest answers.
Morocco is a different world. That's the attraction. It was once the domain of Motorhomes only but definately not anymore. Morocco under the new King is catching up very quickly. Its like stepping back 100 years in many respects but in other ways it's quite advanced and catching on quick.
First things first. Caravans  are welcomed, though they are definately in the minority. Probably as high as 9 percent Motorhomes.  I would say 80 percent of campers are french. French is the second language although English is widely spoken.
Technically you have to import and export your caravan. If you down lad and print of form D16TER it makes life a lot easier. You need all your normal car and caeavan documents with you. We always buy our tickets from one if the many booths on the approach to Algericas A good tip is to pay slightly extra and buy an 'open return" so that you can return whenever you like.I would strongly recommend sailing into Tangier Med Port. It's easy  as once you get off the ship and cleared customs and immigration you are straight on to what looks very much like a French autoroute. On board the ship there is an immigration office to get your passport stamped. The customs at the port will want to see the form D16ter , Times vary and it has taken us anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 and a half hours to get in! The problems that we have encountered is that when pulling a caravan the UK is the only European country that displays the same number on the car as the caravan.  Have your CRIS document handy!
Once through customs there are a row of kiosks. Stop! Insurance for your vehicle can be bought here as well as exchanging cash or using the ATM.  You cannot pre buy Dirhams. Once you have done that you are free to wander. Off you go. Chill..you are entering a world where people have time for each other.  In fact time doesn't seem to matter at all! There are motorway service areas similar to France (further south there's even some MCDonalds!) You will be invited to buy everything from car air freshers to oranges. I have never known them to be nasty when I have firmly said "non! " that is unless you want some and then start to barter!
The tolls are cheap in comparison to European  tolls as is fuel. Food even at the service areas is well affordable, but the most reasonable is a fresh tagine. Wild camping is generally tolerated, though not advisable. Campsites tend to be basic genreally so be prepared to use your own facilities  on occasions. Most are clean but lack the finer things like loo paper or toilet seats! All sites that we use have electricity of at least 6amps and is unlimited. Sites vary but all are very cheap and are in good locations. Whilst we have toured Morocco extensively I am going to concentrate on our recent trip. First things first . Sat Nav.  Now you can pay about £70-£80 for an add on to your Garmon or Tom Tom or you can download  a free app called Navmii. This works without the internet, once downloaded.  You can even programme it to tell it that you are an RV. We have found this brilliant but like all Sat Nav you still make the decisions where to go and new roads pop up regularly!
We always head tor the Moulay Bousselm  area. It's about 100 miles from the port  so it shouldn't matter if you are held up at customs. There are two sites.  The second one known as the International is definately the better one. This is at the side of a laguna and overlooking the sea. There are small restaurants within walking distance. They may not all look attractive from outside but a decent tagine costs about 40 Durham (less than 4 euris) and all freshly prepared. Wifi us available at reception that involves my favourite word "free!"

Behind the caravan the views are to die for! 



The little restaurants along the sea front 



From here we head to Mohammedia that is near casablanca. This is the financial caputal of Morocco although Rabat is the real capital.  We stop at l'ocean bleu. A lovely location on the beach. The site is basic but has good free wifi. Be prepared for the locals coming round trying to sell you fresh fish that's still wriggling!  

A real eco friendly campsite! 

From here we travelled to Marakech. One of my favourite campsites.  Le Relais. Suddenly the weather gets warmer. It's 31 degrees and sunny but surrounded by the snow covered peaks of the High Atlas. The campsite is situated only about 5 miles from the centre of Marakech but yet it is quiet and calm lounging by the pool and listening to the birds in the trees.





A lovely in site bar and restaurant and yes you can buy alcohol! A MUST is to go to the Square if the Dead. We always go in late afternoon so we get the best of both worlds.  At night the sites, the smells, the colours,the atmosphere!  Like all Tourist places do keep your eye on your purses etc. Marakech  is a nightmare to drive around particularly in the dark. Mopeds, horses and carts, pedestrians,  bad drivers all with no road sense and no lights!  It's well worth the money to get a taxi from the campsite for the sake of your sanity! It makes the M25 or Paris look like a Country Lane!  


From here we took a longish drive down to Agadir. Campsites here are more expensive. In fact everything is.  It's going to be Morocco or Frances answer to Benidorm very shortly with skyscrapers and holiday resorts going up all along the coast. The place was heaving with French in their Motorhomes and with their dogs. The sites that we visited were all of a higher standard in this area. Some had views to die for. The most expensive was on the sea front with all facilities for less than 11 euros a night.

For me, a caravan has it anyway.  We were able to leave the caravan and go exploring. Yes we were grateful for a 4x4 but many of the places that we visited were accessible with a sturdy car. There's so much to see and so beautiful








Yes away from the Tourist route can be intimidating at first. Rush hour in the back streets of Marrakech 

Navigating your way through mopeds and pedestrian is one thing but then throw in the donkey and mules and sometimes horses and camels! Even in congestion it's all good hearted.  No one gets stressed out.  The Moroccans tend to smile and wait graciously. There's no rush for anything. 
That's the thing that strikes me most.  It's the people. Friendly and considerate. Always smiling yet some of them live in sheer poverty. Different values.  
That brings me on to car insurance and breakdown.  I found it almost impossible to get fully comprehensive cover or breakdown.  After seeing a few Motorhomes out there I see why only having third party cover is no big deal. One particular motorhome who should never have been let behind any wheel never mind a huge motorhome lost the entire front end from it. The vehicle was duly pulled into a shady looking foadside garage and within 2 weeks it was better than new for pennies or Dirhams in this Cas!  There is very much a "make do and mend" attitude and   genuine desire to help a fellow human. This was all repaired at the same price as what his "excess" would have cost him in his home Country!  The only downside though us that you mustn't be in a rush!  
Health and safety is non existent but common sense applies which is absolutely fine by me For example we missed our 11.15 ferry and the next one was 5 hours later. We sat dockside and watched all the cargo and juggernauts being laden ed on to a cargo ship. Fascinating how they reversed these things on to a ferry..next thing I knew we were being told to reverse on-there was room for a car and caravan or did we want to wait 5 hours? !


I did as I was told. The only problem was that there were no passenger  facilities so I drank my coffee  in the "drivers lounge". This was a source of great amusement.  I was the only female in there and thought to myself "well I've driven on there the same as you! " The coffee was cheaper with free wifi. The world was good until we suddenly realised that we hadn't checked where this cargo shop was going to.....I held my breath as the ship docked. .....
This didn't look like the place for a tourist with a car and caravan to be......Is it even Spain.....


Wow! YES! It just brought us into the other side of the Port. Common sense had applied again! No red tape for red tapes sake as in europe sometimes.
For anyone thinking if going to Morocco.  It's not a holiday. It's a fun experience and adventure. I just love the place. I'm already planning my return-just do it! 







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